Mole Crickets
Based on extensive research, the best time to treat for mole crickets is during mid June through July. Proper timing of the insecticide application is one of the most important parts of mole cricket management.
Many people choose to apply an insecticide during late winter to early spring (February-April) to control mole crickets. This is usually a waste of time, money and product. What they don't understand is the biology of this pest.
Mole crickets spend the winter mostly as adults in the soil. As the weather warms in late February and March, adult mole crickets emerge and begin to mate. During the mating process, the male makes a chamber in the soil and chirps to attract a female. Attracted females fly to the males. After mating, the male dies and the female flies to a suitable area for egg laying (possibly your lawn). The mated female begins tunneling and laying eggs in the tunnels. Females usually lay about four clutches of eggs in different areas, averaging 35 eggs per clutch. After egg laying, the female dies. Because mole crickets are nocturnal, this mating process is occurring in late evening and at night.
Many people panic and treat their landscape with all sorts of pesticides when they see mole crickets or tunnels in the spring. Insecticide treatments during the mating and egg laying activity in the spring, when mostly adults are present, are not recommended because adults are not easily killed and the chances of re infestation from subsequent flights and unhatched eggs are high.
Although lawns can suffer some damage at this time, it is better to mark areas of mole cricket activity and target those areas for treatment later. The best time to treat home lawns for mole crickets is in mid June through July after the eggs have all hatched and before the nymphs (immature mole crickets) are large enough to do much damage. But don't treat at all if there is no evidence of mole cricket activity - no eggs may have been laid or they may not have survived.
If you are not sure if mole crickets are present, you can find out with a soap solution. Dissolve one ounce of liquid soap into two gallons of water and pour over an area approximately nine square feet - and count the number of mole crickets that emerge. It only takes several minutes for mole crickets to crawl to the surface after the soap treatment if they are present. Repeat the process around the yard where you suspect mole cricket problems. If you flush an average of more than five crickets per site, treat the lawn with an insecticide. Follow up with spot treatments if any crickets escape the first insecticide treatment.
Irrigate before you apply an insecticide if the soil is dry, and treat as late in the afternoon as you can. For best results, apply baits near dusk. Don't water in baits, but water in sprays and granules with a quarter-inch of irrigation soon after application, unless the label advises otherwise.
There are a number of products on the market for mole crickets in home lawns. A few products recommended by the University of Florida include Oftanol, Dursban bait and Orthene-Turf, Tree and Ornamental spray. Before using any product for mole cricket control first identify the problem as mole cricket damage by using soap flush. Then choose an insecticide that lists mole crickets on its label. And finally read the container carefully for use directions, application techniques, irrigation requirements and precautions.
We also see considerable damage from mole crickets during August to October when the surviving nymphs have reached adulthood. In the adult state, the crickets can fly and are more mobile. Nymphs can't fly. Baits seem to be more effective in controlling a late infestation of adult mole crickets during late summer through fall.
